What a way to start your day
There are few things more pleasant in this world than awakening to the sound of a typhoon gently beating down upon the roof outside your window. After a string of brutally hot days, the great gods of wind and thunder Fuijin and Raijin have graciously delivered a typhoon unto the good people of Kyoto. I know that what you might be thinking — “A typhoon? That sounds serious.” — but fear not, gentle reader. It’s just a big ol’ rainstorm on a wonderfully grey Sunday morning. It almost reminds me of Boston; this summer was nothing but heat stroke-inducing days interspersed with epic thunderstorms. Actually though, this is more like what I imagine everyday would be like if I were Morrissey, except with less self-imposed celibacy and pompadours.
I made another friend in the form of an old Japanese man, though this time he didn’t speak a word. We were at the covered shopping arcade in Teramachi, a large shopping district in downtown Kyoto, and wasting some time by playing one of those crane prize games, the kind you might find at your local cinema. We played one outside of a store full of them (apparently, they’re huge in Japan) and were largely unsuccessful. After a bit, an employee came outside, opened the machine, and rearranged things so that it was tantalizing yet physically impossible to get most of the prizes. Enter the ojii-san (literally: “grandfather,” but used for old man too). We shared a laugh over what happened and then he nodded and disappeared. A moment later, he returned with a prize from one of the machines — Snoopy riding a banana (weird, I know) — and handed to me with a smile before disappearing back into the crowd. Bemused, I put it on my backpack and went about my way; I haven’t seen him since.
The Sanjūsangendō
Our history professor charged us with finding a piece of twelfth-century Kyoto, so yesterday I traveled to Shichijo with some of my erstwhile compatriots to find ourselves something worth seeing. We completely and utterly hit the jackpot by exploring the Sanjūsangendō, a Buddhist temple that was constructed by the legendary samurai leader Taira Kiyomori and home to the retired emperor Go-Shirakawa during the 1100s. Not only that, but it is also home to the 1,001 images of Kannon, the Buddhist deity of mercy, and the amazing statues of Fuijin and Raijin, the Japanese gods of wind and thunder respectively.
A sampling of the 1,001 statues of Kannon
It’s hard to describe the feeling I felt upon seeing 1,001 amazing statues of this Buddhist deity. “Breathtaking” is certainly appropriate, but somehow I feel it doesn’t do the Sanjūsangendō justice; “overwhelming,” might be a better term.
So very very tasty
Fact the first: Thursday was my birthday.
Fact the second: My host mother is an amazing cook.
Inevitable conclusion: Delicious birthday dinner.
Pictures say a thousand words, but, tell me, can you eat a picture? If not, then please know that this sashimi was the best I have ever had and lingers on in my mind even now. For those of you who don’t know, sashimi is a Japanese delicacy — small pieces of raw fish sliced very thinly. To my more conservative readers, please don’t let the “raw” part discourage you; it is absolutely delicious and probably just as safe as whatever you’re eating normally.
Also served was sekihan, a Japanese dish consisting of adzuki bean and rice that’s traditionally served on special occasions like birthdays, holidays, and weddings. Adzuki beans are one of my favorite things in the world, so I was beyond pleased when my okaa-san unveiled the rice. After dinner, we dined on cream puffs from Beard Papa’s, a Japanese cream puff chain that does dessert right. My, oh my, what a wonderful birthday dinner. I did miss having my mother’s chocolate cake, but this was a pretty good substitute.
All this talk about food has made me hungry for asagohan (breakfast), so with that I leave you, dear reader, for the sounds of rain falling and the tastes of Japanese cuisine.
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